Better take a strong heavy duty bike battery with you if you decide to bike this part of Montenegro. 60 and many more tunnels varying in length, number of potholes and the fact that none of them have any lights make the beginning of this day a real thrill seeking adventure. One good thing…you won’t find too much traffic on these roads. It’s actually almost empty.
What struck me today was that when I bike I really get to see and interact with my environment so much more than when I drive. The scenery, the dogs which followed me, roadside workers eager to chat, fishermen, pilgrims looking for a way into the monastery and many more people crossed my path.
In the past few days all I could think of was what I was going to do and where I was going? Today’s ride changed it all. It took me a good part of the day to really start to enjoy myself.
I decided to take the scenic route. Villager had told me that I only had about 7km of gravel road along the top of the canyon. Sadly or luckily I forgot to ask in what state the road was? I ended up pushing my bike up through rough gravel patches and thinking why am I doing this again? And then my thoughts ended. Here at the edge of Komarnica canyon I started noticing everything around me.
Unable to go over the higher passes of Durmitor due to the snow, I was left with the only other option and to follow several canyons leading up to the plateau beneath the impressive peaks of Durmitor and the town of Zabljak.
Can’t help it but by now the emptiness and isolated nature of mountains around Durmitor are becoming one of my recurring themes. The ride was stunning, taking me into Durmitor National Park via a long plateau of highland meadows and old Yugoslav monuments. I’d have stayed a while longer had the clouds not closed in and hurried me along to the town of Zabljak.
Over the past week I’ve slowly increased the distances I biked. It felt right Yesterday’s 110km from Ostrog Monastery to Herceg Novi was long, tiering and at the same time exhilarating.
Long stretches with gentle inclines in an empty landscape under the scorching sun, gave me enough time to be with me. I needed to do this trip and take some time to establish my own rhythms and find out what’s really important to me.
Day two in Herceg Novi and I’m stuck on the coast while waiting for a thunder and lightning storm to pass over. Torrential style rains accompanied by a strong wind make it almost impossible to set off. Or that’s what I keep telling myself ;) There is only one thing left to do, and that is wait and share some of my impressions from my descent from Zabljak to Biogradska Gora.
It’s an interesting stretch up along the Tara canyon. You can see that tourism is picking up here. Scattered along the roadside are various information boards about cultural and natural sights in the region. I’d normally just drive past them, but this time decided to make a few detours. They turned out to be surprisingly fun.